Stage 1
The first stage is to mix up enough green stuff to cover a base. You make to make sure it is the right height and covers the base well. And leave to cure for about 10-20 minutes
Stage 2
This stage we mark on the design you want. At this point you don't want to drag the green stuff too much, it is possible that you will cause it to stretch and will warp your design. Once you are happy leave it to dry over night.
Stage 3
This is where the etching begins. Use a tool (I used a couple of my sculpting tools) to deepen the markings you made previously. They don't actually have to be that deep, just enough that the next stage will be effective.
Stage 4
Once you have etched in your design to the base, you then need to use something to make sure the mold will come free with minimal fuss. I used the below, Vaseline. Spread it over your base, making sure you get it into the gaps you have made.
Stage 5
Now, put another ball of green stuff onto your newly greased base. Push down to make sure it goes into the gaps, which is the important part. Push this down firmly, and leave to dry for about 10-15 minutes. I found it handy to make sure there is an edge on the stamp, it makes it easier to line it up in the following sections.
Once you remove the stamp, this is what you should have (but with your own design). Then leave to dry over night.
Stage 6
This stage is where once you've made the stamp you can just repeat to make multiple bases. I used milliput myself, but you can used green stuff just as well. Make a small amount of your material up and apply it to the base, much like the first step.
Stage 7
Take your stamp and push into the milliput firmly (first picture). Leave this for about 30 seconds or so, then carefully remove. Be careful not to drag or pull the stamp too much, this might cause the gaps it leaves to warp. (second picture) Then leave to dry over night. Once dry it will be available to paint.
In the end the bases should turn out something like this:
Brilliant! Simple, yet brilliant - always the best solution - I'll be giving this a try (and giving you the credit) at some point.
ReplyDeleteNice tutorial. Have you used this method for any other type of bases?
ReplyDeleteAndy - Thanks, feel free! :D
ReplyDeleteRandroid - I haven't, but it it more than possible to do it with other stuff. Its just a basic stamp, the idea remains the same, just the 'design/object' changes.
An excellent little tutorial on making GS stamps. The technique works great for doing custom iconography and many other things too. Cheers!
ReplyDeleteThat it does. I am hoping to use this with other stuff sometime.
ReplyDeleteSmall Gripe: "Flagstones" are typically much more random, these are more like regular paving stones :P
ReplyDeleteThat said, great simple tutorial and I will be giving this a try!
Starbomber - Hm, did not know that. I was originally going to do something like that but then thought it wouldn't suit the dwarf style of it being all over the place.
ReplyDeleteThanks.
this blog = win. followed.
ReplyDeletewhat's the differance between greenstuff & milliput. I've never used milliput. I'm thinking of using this method for my upcoming dwarf shields
ReplyDeletejcrox - Milliput is not something designed to do small delicate details like greenstuff is. Instead it is more likely to be used to make bases, add basic shapes to sculpts and used in terrain making.
ReplyDeleteI am not sure how well it would work with making shields, but I would suggest you give it a go at least.
I've seen lots of stamping tutorials like this before, but was yours the one which left me confident enough to try it myself, thanks by putting this up :)
ReplyDeleteBy the way, man... milliput is intended for fine detail too but the most well known use of milliput is to sculpt things like shield and swords!
1.-Milliput has less memory, wich means it won't try to get back to its original form after you prees/sculpt detail into it unlike the used chewing gum feel green stuff has.
2.-Milliput can be watered down as it slighly dilutes so you can bend different lumbs easier.
3.- Most important is that Milliput sets rock hard, not rubbery so you can sand and file it propperly. That makes ideal putty for weapons, vehicles, robots, armor and whatever you want to be blocky since you can sand till you get SHARP edges :)
Cheers :)